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Thread: Sloped Roofs

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Sloped Roofs

    Just an FYI for Tyler from a former joist designer: it is perfectly acceptable for the joists to line up and is in fact preferable most of the time. In fact, we much preferred them to line up if they were bearing on joist girders because it keeps the load concentric with the girder panel point. But it generally makes it cleaner for beam and joist framing too. The time you want to stagger joists is when you're bearing on narrow beam flanges. For K-series joists with 2 1/2" minimum end bearing plus 1/4" clear from beam centerline, you would stagger them if bearing on a beam less than 5 1/2" wide. Similarly for an LH joist, stagger if bearing on less than a 8 1/2" wide flange. Alternatively, you can coordinate with the joist manufacturerand possibly keep things lined up based on actual reactions from the joists. For instance, a lightly loaded 18LH might not have any more reaction than an 18K joist. In that case, it would be acceptable to use 2 1/2" as the minimum bearing (like a K-series joist) rather than the LH minimum of 4". Section 104.4(b) of the SJI joist catalog gives another "out" by stating that "special ends must be specified" for LH joists bearing on narrow flanges where they must be butted up. We typically did this by adjusting our endweb working point back farther to get the joist reaction as far back toward the beam centerline as possible. Gussets under the beam flange to brace against flange bending are another option if narrow beams are being used and staggering is not desired.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Sloped Roofs

    I have tried dmahan's way of creating a roof and it works pretty much the same as the way that I stated above. The biggest thing is to attach the columns to the underside of the floor and have your beam framing set to distance and not elevation. This will also help when you put cross bracing that is attached to your framing because it will adjust as you adjus the floor elevations and such.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Sloped Roofs

    I am trying to slope my metal deck in two directions, east to west and north to south, to minimize tapered insulation. I am able to achieve the desired results for the deck by manipulating with shape editing, however, when a section is cut, the deck and structure do not match.

    Any ideas?

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Sloped Roofs

    I agree with Tib, this is far the EASIEST method, with the no headaches whatsoever!
    When you change the slope of the floor, all framing changes with it (that is attached directly to the plane)

    I place all my framing on reference planes.. if the slope changes, I just use the align tool to match the slope, and move the reference plane down to suit the offset
    Thats the most work I have to do..

    Quote Originally Posted by Tib View Post
    Sloped Roof Framing:
    Place a structural floor (roof decking). Set the floor slope (slope can be set later)
    Cut a section and set the work plane to the bottom of the deck. Revit will prompt you to go to a plan view. Pick the view where the new floor was created.
    Beam command: Select 3D Snapping.
    Place perimeter Beams by drawing in the Beam line, picking edge of the deck first.
    Place beam system for interior members.
    Adjust the beams elevation (if joists are used) to allow the joist seats to sit on top.
    I use Z direction: other. This way I have only one elevation to deal with.
    After the floor slopes all the framing should follow.
    Test to see if a member is actually attached to the decking by clicking the member and in the properties, Work Plane will state the type of floor it is attached to. If the Work plane is not visible, then the member is attached to the level and not the floor.

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