Roof Alignment and Overhang

[jld]

The House have different roof and when I join the roof to another, the corner of the roof do not align properly. All the roof are the same thickness. I tried to make the connection to the other roof manually by editing the roof I want to join but still the same problem. Can anyone help me.

Jules

[jld]

When we create a roof the overhang is like the wood truss #1. I would like to know if I want an overhang like the wood truss #2, can it be done. The reason why I would like to have it as the #2, is that I have different orientation and size roof on the house and when you join the roof one to another, the end align perfectly as they are all the same hight, as in the #1 style, because of the difference in the hight length of the end of the roof, they don't align properly.

See my upper post on roof for image of the roof and the attachment.

Jules

[aaronrumple]

Move the roof up or down as needed to get the condition you are after (If I understand your issue correctly..)

[jld]

Hello aaronrumple,

I've tried it and the only thing it did is able me to align the top of the roof properly but the bottom of the fascia do not align properly.

I think if we where able to select the #2 style truss when we create a roof, it would make it easier to align the roof as the hight of the fascia is always the same no matter the pitch of the roof, as long as we use the same type of truss, what I mean is that the fascia part of the truss is the same size, eg; 2" X 6" or any other lumber dimensions.

Hope I'm explaining myself enough for you to understand what I mean. The reason is that English being my second language, sometime I make mistake in phrasing my toughs.

Jules

[Steve_Stafford]

Test reply to see if JLD is getting notifications...

[jld]

HELP, HELP, Roof Alignment and Overhang.

Is someone able to help me with my problem or direct me to the right help source.
Look at the attachment I've posted above.
I'm using the trial version and time is flying away.

Regards
Jules

[Mark Vorstenbosch]

Hi Jld

Would it be possible to attach the roof as rvt. file so we can have a look at it.

My first idea would also be to move the roof up.
But I think if you can give us the rvt. file we will have a
better chance of under standing the problem.(well I will)

[Merlin]

OK.......Now I'm not quite sure I'm with you BUT it might be the way the roof lines were created. The roof lines that are created in one go with , say, the "by footprint" selection have a slight difference with those that are drawn individually.

SO....rather than labour on about the differences (we'll go into that later) let's see if we can fast-track things first....As I'm not sure what you're trying to achieve, answer these and experiment with them to see the differences:
Did you create the roof using the "by footprint" command and then drew some other lines in place?
Did you draw any from endpoint to endpoint of roof outline or did you draw any lines by offsetting from the walls?

Each of these lines have some variation of their properties with the creation of the roof.

Get back to us on how the roof was created, but I've got a feeling this may have something to do with it.

John Mc

[SkiSouth]

I think John's observations are correct. Use the same method to draw the roof layout. (Don't use pick walls as all conditions of your roof appear to not be defined by walls.) If you mix the methods, as John has correctly pointed out, the roof edges react differently from each other.

[Merlin]

I think John's observations are correct. Use the same method to draw the roof layout. (Don't use pick walls as all conditions of your roof appear to not be defined by walls.) If you mix the methods, as John has correctly pointed out, the roof edges react differently from each other.

*Cordial bows to the sage Skisouth*....thanks, mate!

[jld]

Thank you guys for your replies.
I've originally created the roof by footprint, then redo them drawing lines and the same result. I would send the rvt file but it is 18.8 MB. and I only have dial-up as high-speed internet is not available in my area, it would take me all day to upload the file.
I've included a close up image of the roof fascia with notes hope you can see what I mean.

If you need more details, I will get them for you.

Jules

[lev.lipkin]

If there is no way to make one extruded roof out of two roofs you have, which would be the preferred method, consider cutting 'sticking out' piece using family, void. Use 'cut geometry' tool after void is created while in family editor (pick roof to cut, then void).

You could copy-paste 2 roofs into empty project, purge unused, maybe such model would fit here.

[jld]

I will see what I can do in order to send you the rvt file of the roof. I will try copying the roof into an empty project and clear all the family i don't need. I might be able to get a reasonnablr size file si I can post it.

Keep the good help as you all do.
Jules

[Gadget Man]

...I've included a close up image of the roof fascia with notes hope you can see what I mean... If I am not mistaken, what you think your problem is that the TOPS OF FASCIA are aligning and the BOTTOMS OF FASCIAS are not - at the same time.
Well, if you have two (or more) roofs of the same overall thickness (i.e. assume that the Top Chord or Rafter + Battens + Finishing Cover for a basic, simple roof = 145mm) and each of them has a different pitch, their Fascia heights will be slightly different (see picture). In that case it is NOT POSSIBLE to have both top and bottom line up....
If you plan on later using a fascia or gutter you can easily cover this difference by it (is not so visible then), but for the gutter (or fascia) to continue smoothly from one roof to the other you need the TOPS to line up (don't worry about the bottoms).
I hope it helps...

[Tobie]

Make the roofs 2 cut plum roofs. You can then select the facia hight to be the same. The fascia appears different because the slope varies.

[jld]

jetisart, I understand perfectly what you are saying that is why I was wondering if there would be a possibility to have the choice in the style of roof truss as I mention in my posting
If you had a look at the roof truss I have posted, you will see that the style of the truss # 2 would correct the problem and also save a lot of work during the construction, as you don't have to fill in the angle space in order to receive the soffit, the angle is already at 90 degrees.

I will work on reducing the size of the rvt file tomorrow and see to upload it so you can all see where I went wrong and what could be done to correct it.

Good night to all and try not to have nightmares about my roof.

Jules

[Gadget Man]

jetisart, I understand perfectly what you are saying that is why I was wondering if there would be a possibility to have the choice in the style of roof truss as I mention in my posting ...
From your close-up detail I thought, that you were trying to match tops and the bottoms at the same time... Sorry.



... the style of the truss # 2 would correct the problem and also save a lot of work during the construction, as you don't have to fill in the angle space in order to receive the soffit, the angle is already at 90 degrees...
Yes, that you can also do, but this is not exactly the usual way of installing roof trusses - you are talking about cantilevered trusses - entirely different concept. Your type of truss would have to be designed and built slightly differently to a standard truss (e.g. extra webb members, reinforcements - different load/force distribution - etc.).The best advice would be to talk to the truss manufacturer, since there is so many ways to "skin the cat" - they usually give very good advice and they are experts (at least the ones I co-operated with in Australia).

[jld]

You are partially right on the truss as I use the style #2 most of the time for different reasons;
1- The one I mention in my post
2- Gives you more insulation thickness at the top of the exterior wall
3- Result in saving money on the construction time and energy used after.
4- Maybe personal but I find the look to be more refine then the #1 style and higher clearance from the ground to the soffit.
5- Price wise, almost the same, depending on the truss manufacturer you use. Some time it is cheaper.

As for my Log Home roofs, I manage to reduce the size of the file by removing components;
windows, doors, furnitures, gable-end walls on second floor, etc. Seen we are only interested in the roofs for now, but it still to big. 5.5 MB.

[Gadget Man]

You are partially right on the truss as I use the style #2 most of the time for different reasons...
OK, You can use it for whatever reason you like - I have no problem with it and I'm not saying it's wrong (it's not my house after all... ;) ), but around my place this wouldn't be a normal way to construct your average roof. Most of my clients (builders) would be at least... hmmm... reluctant to use it... It could be just a little too... "revolutionary" for them :) That's all. But I agree, we should look outside the square... :)

[jld]

Hi,:Puffy:

Sorry :sad: for the delay for my reply, after :banghead: my brain, I finally found a way for you guys to get a copy of the .rvt file.
Seen we are only interested in the roofs for now, I removed some components;
windows, doors, furniture, dormers, columns, gable-end walls on second floor, etc.

Hope you have some ideas :idea:

Jules