Thread: mitering 3D solids

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Re: mitering 3D solids

Originally Posted by duhvinci
I would agree with you except for the fact the base dimensions and top dimensions contain different aspect ratios, resulting in differing slope of the front and side panels. My only reason for creating the special UCS (and slicing object) was to facilitate the point picking.
I created UCSs at first but the slicing kept working at 90 degrees to the plane I wanted. ~shrug~ I don't know why.
Then I realised that the aspect ratio is not relevant so long as each corner is treated separately.

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Re: mitering 3D solids

I was away for a couple day, thanks to both of you I think I have it.

thanks again.
Jeff

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Re: mitering 3D solids

Originally Posted by JSSMSM
I am trying to make a 3D model drawing of a trophy stand that is rectangular & tapers as it goes up (pyramid), going from 44"x 24" at base to 38 1/2" x 12" at top and is 10 3/4" tall. The thickness of the parts are 3/4".
witch in trun means that the pitch (tapper angle) of the side is diffrent from the ends.
They don't make it easy for us do they! Can't us simple taper box angle chart!

I can make the individual rectangular side & end parts, then rotate them into position at the angles I need, but I can't get them to cut at the intersection and make a miter joint.
I need this so I can move the parts in a exploded representation and dimension the part with cut angles (both part dimension & edge pitch angle).

I remember doing this in 3D class ( I thought) but to long ago to remember where to find command. Intersect & subtract doesn't work for this.

I am using Acad 2006 full version. is this possible or do I need molding.
Making a perfect miter joint is difficult it involved lots of steps like
choosing right tools for the job,
Get the miter angle right - if you are struggling to find right angle then start by measuring the complete angle change and divide it by the number of pieces you need to make the turns. The number that you get as a result is the angle to which the miter must be set. 45 degrees is the most commonly set miter angle on the saw.

Verify the miter angle by making two cuts as a test and check the resulting corner using a square.

And After the cuts have been angled, one side of the wood would look longer compared to the other. For instance, the inside will be equal to your wall but shorter if it is an outer corner piece. It will be the opposite in case of an inner corner piece.

Make sure to keep track of which side goes where when you start taking the measurements.

I got this info from a article on Miter joints, You can also read that article as it might help you -

Best regards,
thomaskeeper

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by JSSMSM
I am trying to make a 3D model drawing of a trophy stand that is rectangular & tapers as it goes up (pyramid), going from 44"x 24" at base to 38 1/2" x 12" at top and is 10 3/4" tall. The thickness of the parts are 3/4".
witch in trun means that the pitch (tapper angle) of the side is diffrent from the ends.
They don't make it easy for us do they! Can't us simple taper box angle chart!

I can make the individual rectangular side & end parts, then rotate them into position at the angles I need, but I can't get them to cut at the intersection and make a miter joint.
I need this so I can move the parts in a exploded representation and dimension the part with cut angles (both part dimension & edge pitch angle).

I remember doing this in 3D class ( I thought) but to long ago to remember where to find command. Intersect & subtract doesn't work for this.

I am using Acad 2006 full version. is this possible or do I need molding.
Making a perfect miter joint is difficult it involved lots of steps like
choosing right tools for the job,
Get the miter angle right - if you are struggling to find right angle then start by measuring the complete angle change and divide it by the number of pieces you need to make the turns. The number that you get as a result is the angle to which the miter must be set. 45 degrees is the most commonly set miter angle on the saw.

Verify the miter angle by making two cuts as a test and check the resulting corner using a square.

And After the cuts have been angled, one side of the wood would look longer compared to the other. For instance, the inside will be equal to your wall but shorter if it is an outer corner piece. It will be the opposite in case of an inner corner piece.

Make sure to keep track of which side goes where when you start taking the measurements.

I got this info from a article on Miter joints, You can also read that article as it might help you -

Best regards,
thomaskeeper

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